Rodent Control: Get Rats and Mice Out and Seal the Way In
Scratching in the ceiling at night, droppings in the silverware drawer, a chewed bag of dog food in the garage. Call Bastion Pest Pros and we’ll get a licensed local rodent exterminator on it to find how rodents are getting in, remove them and seal the gaps.
- Calls answered 24/7
- Free to call
- Licensed local pros
- Homes and businesses
- What it isRodent removal — inspection, trapping or baiting, sealing entry points (exclusion), and rodent droppings cleanup.
- Typical cost (U.S. guide estimate)Published cost guides put exclusion work at about $300–$1,000; trapping, follow-ups and cleanup are priced after the inspection.
- How fast help arrivesCall to check same-day or next-day availability in your area.
Rodent Control at a Glance
Rodent work is different from spraying for bugs. The goal is to remove the animals already inside and close the doors they used, so new ones can’t follow.
- What it isRodent removal — inspection, trapping or baiting, sealing entry points (exclusion), and rodent droppings cleanup.
- Typical cost (U.S. guide estimate)Published cost guides put exclusion work at about $300–$1,000; trapping, follow-ups and cleanup are priced after the inspection.
- How fast help arrivesCall to check same-day or next-day availability in your area.
- How many visitsUsually one setup visit plus several follow-up trap checks; the pro sets the schedule after inspection.
Signs You Have Rats or Mice
Rodents are active at night and avoid people, so many homeowners find evidence, like mice in attic spaces or droppings in a drawer, before they ever see an animal. Match what you’re noticing to the table.
| Sign | What it usually means |
|---|---|
| Droppings along walls, in drawers or under sinks | An active travel route; fresh droppings are dark and soft |
| Scratching or scurrying in ceilings or walls after dark | Rodents nesting in voids or the attic |
| Gnawed corners on food boxes, bags or wires | Feeding and tooth-wear chewing |
| Dark, greasy rub marks along baseboards or beams | A route used over and over |
| Shredded paper, fabric or insulation in a hidden spot | A nest |
| Musky or ammonia odor in a closed room or cabinet | Urine buildup from a heavier problem |
| Pets staring at or pawing one wall | Movement inside the wall |
| Burrows along the foundation or under a shed | Norway rats nesting outside |
One sighting in daylight often means a crowded population. Call sooner rather than later.
Rats vs Mice: How to Tell Them Apart
Rats and mice need different trap sizes, placements and sealing standards. Knowing which one you have changes the whole plan.
| House mouse | Norway rat | Roof rat | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Adult weight | About half an ounce | About 7–18 ounces | About 5–10 ounces |
| Body shape | Small, large ears, slim tail | Heavy, blunt nose, small ears | Sleek, pointed nose, large ears |
| Tail | About as long as the body | Shorter than head and body | Longer than head and body |
| Droppings | Rice-sized, pointed ends | Large, capsule-shaped | Smaller than Norway, pointed |
| Where it nests | Wall voids, cabinets, behind appliances | Burrows, basements, ground floors | Attics, trees, ivy, upper walls |
| How far it travels | Rarely more than about 30 feet | About 100–500 feet a night | Often 300 feet or more |
| Behavior | Curious, investigates new things | Cautious around new objects | Cautious, good climber |
- House mouse
- Norway rat
- Roof rat to scale
- ears
- nose
- tail length
For species details, see our guides to rat removal and mouse control.
Why Rodents Can’t Wait: Health and Damage Risks
Rodents aren’t just a nuisance. Their urine, droppings, bites and parasites carry real health risks, and their constant chewing damages homes.
Hantavirus
Spread mainly by rodents; in the U.S. the deer mouse is the most common carrier. People can breathe it in when fresh urine, droppings or nest material is stirred up, according to the CDC.
Leptospirosis
Rats, mice and other animals pass the bacteria in urine, and it can survive in water or soil for weeks to months.
Rat-bite fever
Spread by bites, scratches, or contact with rodent urine or saliva. It is treatable with antibiotics when caught early.
Food contamination
Droppings and urine on counters and pantry goods can spread bacteria such as Salmonella.
Fleas and ticks
Rodents carry parasites into the home; pets can pick them up. See flea control if pets start scratching.
Fire and repair risk
Gnawed electrical wiring, chewed pipes and flattened, soiled insulation add up fast.
If anyone develops a fever or breathing trouble after rodent exposure, see a doctor and mention the contact.
How Fast a Rodent Problem Grows
Rodents breed quickly. A house mouse can have 5 to 10 litters a year, and young mice can breed within about 5 to 6 weeks of birth.
- Week 1
One or two mice enter through a gap by a pipe or garage door
- Weeks 3–4
First litter born in a wall or cabinet void; droppings appear
- Month 2
Activity in several rooms, chewed packaging, noises at night
- Month 3+
Young from the first litter start breeding; nests in insulation
- After control
Gaps sealed, traps cleared, droppings cleaned, home quiet
- Stage 1
A house cutaway showing rodent activity spreading from the garage to the kitchen and attic over three months
- Stage 2
Growing
- Stage 3
Established
- After
After treatment
Rats breed more slowly than mice, but they’re larger, chew harder materials and travel farther.
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Call now (844) 442-2144DIY Rodent Control vs Calling a Pro
A single mouse in a garage can be a DIY job. Repeat signs, rats, or rodents in the attic or walls usually call for a professional.
| DIY traps and poison | Licensed pro | |
|---|---|---|
| Finds every entry point | Rarely | Yes, full interior and exterior inspection |
| Seals gaps with chew-proof material | Sometimes, often with foam that rodents chew through | Yes, metal mesh, sheet metal, cement, door sweeps |
| Trap count and placement | A few traps in open areas | Many traps on actual routes, checked on schedule |
| Rodenticide handling | Risk to pets, kids and wildlife | Tamper-resistant stations, placed per label and state law |
| Dead rodents in walls | Common when poison is used indoors | Planned against with trapping and sealing first |
| Droppings and nest cleanup | Risky if swept or vacuumed | Done with proper protective gear |
The most common DIY failure is trapping without sealing. New rodents walk in through the same gap.
What the Rodent Inspection Covers
A good inspection is the core of rodent control. The pro maps where rodents are living, how they move and every way in.
Roofline
soffits, fascia gaps, roof vents, ridge vents, plumbing stacks and where branches touch the roof
Attic
droppings, nests, tunnels in insulation, chewed wires and ductwork
Walls and kitchen
under sinks, behind the stove and refrigerator, around dishwashers and pipe holes
Garage
door seals, weather stripping corners, stored pet food and birdseed
Foundation
cracks, weep holes, crawl space vents, utility line and AC line openings
Yard
burrows, woodpiles, dense ivy, fruit trees, compost and pet waste
Evidence
dropping size and age, rub marks and gnawing to identify the species
You should leave knowing the species, the entry points found, the plan and the total price.
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Call now (844) 442-2144Rodent Control Methods Compared
Most jobs combine several methods. Exclusion is the part that makes results last; trapping and baiting deal with the animals already inside.
| Method | How it works | Best for | Time | Prep |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Exclusion | Gaps sealed with steel mesh, hardware cloth, sheet metal, cement and door sweeps | Every rodent job | Scheduled after inspection | Clear access to garage, attic, crawl space |
| Snap traps | Fast-kill traps placed along walls and routes | Indoors; mice and rats | Follow-up schedule set after inspection | Keep pets out of trap areas |
| Enclosed or electronic traps | Kill traps inside a box | Homes with kids or pets | Same as snap traps | None |
| Bait stations | Rodenticide in locked, tamper-resistant boxes | Mainly outdoors, on the perimeter | Ongoing checks | Tell the pro about pets and wildlife |
| Live traps | Capture without killing | Situations where the pro and state rules allow it | Daily checks required | None |
| Sanitation and habitat changes | Removing food, water and cover | Every job; prevents return | Ongoing | Homeowner habits |
| Cleanup and decontamination | Disinfecting droppings, removing soiled nests and insulation | Attics, crawl spaces, kitchens | After rodents are out | Keep area closed off |
Rodenticide rules vary by state, and many pros limit poison indoors so animals don’t die inside walls. Ask how bait will be used in your home.
Exclusion: Sealing the Gaps Rodents Use
Exclusion is the step most DIY efforts skip. The CDC notes a mouse can fit through a hole about the width of a pencil, roughly 1/4 inch.
Steel wool or copper mesh with caulk
for small holes around pipes and wires
Hardware cloth or metal sheeting
for vents, larger holes and crawl space openings
Cement or mortar
for foundation cracks and gaps around utility lines
Door sweeps and garage door seals
for the most common ground-level entry
Vent and chimney covers
for roof-level entry, often used by roof rats
Flashing
around the base of walls and trailer skirting
Foam, plastic, rubber and wood alone don’t stop rodents; they chew through them.
Trapping: Placement Matters More Than Bait
Traps work when they sit on the routes rodents already use. Rodents prefer to run along walls and in dark, covered spots, not across open floors.
Find the routes:
droppings, rub marks and gnaw marks show where to set traps.
Set traps flush against walls:
with the trigger facing the wall.
Use enough traps:
mice need traps every few feet in active areas; rats need fewer, larger traps.
Go high for roof rats:
on beams, shelves and along pipes in the attic.
Allow for rat caution:
rats may avoid new objects for days, so pros sometimes leave traps unset at first.
Check on schedule:
remove catches promptly and reset until no new activity shows.
Ask the pro how often they’ll check traps and what happens if a rodent dies somewhere you can’t reach.
Baiting and rodenticides: what to know
Bait can help reduce a large outdoor rat population, but it comes with trade-offs. Rodenticide use is regulated by product label and state law.
Tamper-resistant stations
locked boxes keep children and pets away from bait.
Outdoor perimeter use
stations along fences and foundations catch rodents before they reach the house.
Seal first
baiting before entry points are closed can leave poisoned rodents dying inside walls.
Wildlife and pets
animals that eat poisoned rodents can be harmed; ask about the product used.
Removal at the end
uneaten bait should be removed when control work is finished.
If you have pets, ask whether the plan can rely on traps and exclusion with little or no bait indoors.
Sanitation: Take Away Food, Water and Shelter
Rodents stay where life is easy. Cutting off food and cover makes traps work faster and keeps new rodents from settling in.
- Store pantry food, pet food and birdseed in thick plastic, metal or glass containers with tight lids
- Don’t leave pet food or water bowls out overnight
- Use garbage cans with tight lids and no holes
- Pick up fallen fruit and nuts from the yard
- Keep compost bins well away from the house
- Raise woodpiles off the ground and move them away from walls
- Trim grass, shrubs and ivy near the home
- Clear clutter in garages, basements and closets
These steps follow CDC rodent prevention guidance and cost little.
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Call now (844) 442-2144Attic Cleanup After Rodents
Once rodents are out, the attic often needs cleanup. Droppings, urine and nests left behind can hold odors, attract new rodents and pose a health risk.
| Cleanup level | What it involves | When it’s needed |
|---|---|---|
| Spot cleaning | Disinfecting and removing droppings in small areas | Light activity, early catch |
| Nest and debris removal | Bagging nests, soiled insulation and dead rodents | Moderate activity in one area |
| Insulation removal and replacement | Removing contaminated insulation, disinfecting, adding new insulation | Heavy, long-term infestation |
| Duct inspection | Checking HVAC ducts for nests or droppings | Rodents found in or near ductwork |
For heavy infestations, the CDC recommends extra protective gear for cleanup, including respirators with HEPA filters. That’s a strong reason to let a pro handle large attic jobs.
How to clean small areas safely yourself
For a few droppings in a cabinet, the CDC lays out a simple wet-cleaning method. Never sweep or vacuum droppings; that can put virus particles into the air.
Open doors and windows and leave the area for 30 minutes.
Put on rubber or plastic gloves.
Spray droppings and urine with disinfectant or a fresh mix of 1 part bleach to 9 parts water until soaked.
Let it sit for 5 minutes or as the product label says.
Wipe up with paper towels and throw them in a covered trash can.
Mop or sponge the surface with disinfectant.
Wash gloved hands, remove the gloves, then wash bare hands with soap and warm water.
Heavy contamination, attics and crawl spaces are a job for a pro with the right gear.
What Happens When You Call
One call starts the process. You don’t need to know whether it’s a rat or a mouse before you dial.
- Step 1
Call (844) 442-2144:
describe the sounds, droppings or damage and where you’ve noticed them.
- Step 2
A licensed local pro is lined up:
call to check same-day or next-day availability.
- Step 3
Inspection:
the pro identifies the species, finds entry points and explains the plan.
- Step 4
Clear quote:
you get the price for trapping, exclusion and any cleanup before work starts.
- Step 5
Setup and sealing:
traps are set and gaps are sealed, often on the first visit.
- Step 6
Follow-ups:
the pro returns to check traps, remove catches and confirm activity has stopped.
There’s no cost to call and no obligation to book. See how to get service for more detail on what happens after you call.
Start with step 1. It’s free.
Calling costs nothing. You only pay the pest control company if you book the service they quote.
Call (844) 442-2144Ask about same-day or next-day availability
How to Prepare for the Visit
A little prep helps the pro find evidence and work faster. Don’t clean everything up beforehand; droppings help identify the species and routes.
- Note where and when you hear or see activity
- Take photos of droppings, gnaw marks and damage
- Clear a path to the attic hatch, crawl space and garage corners
- Move items out from under sinks
- Keep pets in one room during the visit
- Don’t set out poison right before the visit
- Have a list of any food or items you’ve thrown out due to contamination
After Rodent Treatment: What to Expect
Results come in stages. Some extra noise right after sealing is normal, since rodents trapped inside search for a way out.
- Right after setup
Traps start catching; some noise as rodents look for exits
- First follow-up visit
Catches removed and traps moved if needed
- Later follow-ups
Activity drops; fewer or no new droppings
- Final check
Traps removed once activity stops
- After control
Cleanup, insulation work if needed, ongoing monitoring if chosen
If new droppings keep appearing after the follow-up visits, call the provider back. It usually means a missed entry point.
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Call now (844) 442-2144How Much Does Rodent Control Cost?
Prices vary widely by home size, species and how long rodents have been inside. The pro quotes after inspecting.
Regular visits; the provider sets the schedule.
Show as a table
| Service | Typical cost |
|---|---|
| Rodent exclusion (sealing entry points) | $300–$1,000 |
| One-time general pest treatment | $150–$400 |
| Ongoing pest plan (may include rodent monitoring) | $40–$100 per month |
| Trapping visits, attic cleanup, insulation replacement | Quoted after inspection |
Typical U.S. ranges from published cost guides (AlwaysDoBetter 2026 pricing guide), not Bastion quotes.
When Are Rodents Most Active?
Rodents are a year-round problem, but fall and winter bring the most calls. As temperatures drop, rats and mice move indoors for warmth, food and nesting spots.
Fall (Sept–Nov)
Rodents look for winter shelter; first sounds in attics and walls
Winter (Dec–Feb)
Peak indoor activity; nests in insulation and wall voids
Spring (Mar–May)
Breeding increases; outdoor burrows active again
Summer (Jun–Aug)
Outdoor activity, roof rats in trees and fruit; garden damage
Sealing before fall, before rodents start moving in, helps.
Rodent Problems by Region
Your region shapes which rodent you’re most likely to have. A local pro knows the local species.
| Region | Common rodents | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Southeast & Gulf Coast | Roof rats, Norway rats, house mice | Roof rats common in attics and palm or fruit trees |
| West Coast | Roof rats, Norway rats, house mice, deer mice | Roof rats common in coastal California cities |
| Southwest | House mice, deer mice, roof rats | Deer mice in rural and desert areas |
| Midwest | House mice, Norway rats, deer mice | Strong fall and winter surge indoors |
| Northeast | Norway rats, house mice | Older buildings with many entry points |
| Mountain West | Deer mice, house mice | Cabins and sheds are frequent problem spots |
Questions to Ask the Rodent Pro
These questions help you judge a rodent plan. A good pro answers them plainly.
- 1
Is it rats or mice, and which species?
The answer changes trap size and sealing standards.
- 2
How many entry points did you find, and where?
Ask to see them or get photos.
- 3
What materials will you use to seal gaps?
Look for metal and cement, not foam alone.
- 4
Will you use poison indoors?
Ask about the plan for pets and dead rodents in walls.
- 5
How many follow-up visits are included?
Get the schedule in writing.
- 6
Is cleanup included or separate?
Clarify droppings, nests and insulation.
- 7
Do you warranty exclusion work?
Ask how long and what it covers.
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Call now (844) 442-2144Rodent Myths vs Facts
Rodent advice online is full of half-truths. Here’s what holds up.
- MythCats solve rodent problemsFactCats may catch a few, but they don’t seal entry points or stop breeding
- MythCheese is the best baitFactPeanut butter, nuts or dried fruit usually work better
- MythUltrasonic plug-ins drive rodents outFactThey aren’t a reliable substitute for trapping and sealing
- MythOne mouse means one mouseFactMice breed fast; one seen usually means more
- MythPoison makes rodents leave to find waterFactPoisoned rodents often die inside walls and attics
- MythSpray foam seals holesFactRodents chew through foam; metal and cement last
Rodent Problems in Homes, Rentals and Businesses
Rodent needs depend on the property. Here’s what each type usually involves.
| Property | Common situation | Good to know |
|---|---|---|
| Single-family home | Mice in kitchen, rats in attic or garage | Exclusion is a one-time investment that often pays off |
| Renters | Mice in apartments | Report it to the landlord in writing; responsibility depends on lease and local law |
| Multi-unit buildings | Rodents traveling through shared walls and chases | Units on both sides may need inspection |
| Restaurants and food businesses | Rodents near storage and dumpsters | Health inspectors expect documented control; see commercial pest control |
| Warehouses and storage | Rodents in stock and pallets | Ongoing monitoring with logged bait and trap checks |
Why Call Bastion for Rodent Problems
Rodent control is mostly about finding and closing the way in. One call gets that started.
One number, day or night
rodents get loud at 2 a.m.; the line is open 24/7.
Licensed local pros
pest control licensing is set by each state, and rodenticide use is regulated.
Fast scheduling
call to check same-day or next-day availability.
Know what to leave in place
droppings and gnaw marks help the pro find entry points, so you don’t clean away the evidence before the visit.
Check the license: before anyone sets traps or bait, ask the company for its state pest control license number and confirm it’s active with your state’s licensing agency.
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Call now (844) 442-2144Rodent Control by state
Local guides with state rules, seasonal timing and licensed providers near you.
Florida pest control
- rodent control in Miami
- rodent control in Orlando
- rodent control in Tampa
- rodent control in Jacksonville
- rodent control in Englewood
- rat exterminator in West Palm Beach
- rodent control in St. Cloud
- pest control in Miami
- pest control in Jacksonville
- pest control in Orlando
- pest control in Tampa
- pest control in Fort Myers
- pest control in West Palm Beach
Texas pest control
- rodent control in Houston
- rodent control in Dallas
- rodent control in Austin
- rodent control in San Antonio
- rodent control in Fort Worth
- rodent control in Georgetown
- rodent control in Pasadena
- rodent control in Tomball
- rodent control in Richmond
- rodent control in Spring
- pest control in Houston
- pest control in San Antonio
- pest control in Dallas
- pest control in Austin
- pest control in Corpus Christi
- pest control in Fort Worth
California pest control
- rodent control in Los Angeles
- rodent control in San Diego
- rodent control in San Jose
- rodent control in Sacramento
- rodent control in Santa Rosa
- rodent control in San Francisco
- rodent control in Riverside
- rodent control in Bakersfield
- rodent control in Oceanside
- rodent control in Richmond, CA
- rodent control in Oakland, CA
- rodent control in Ventura
- rodent control in Beaumont, CA
- pest control in Los Angeles
- pest control in San Diego
- pest control in Sacramento
- pest control in Fresno
- pest control in Bakersfield
- pest control in Modesto
Rodent Control FAQs
How long does it take to get rid of rodents?
It depends on the species, the number of entry points and how long rodents have been inside. The pro sets a follow-up schedule after inspection, and larger or long-term infestations take longer.
Should I use poison or traps?
Indoors, most pros prefer traps and sealing so rodents don’t die in walls. Bait stations are used mainly outdoors, following the label and state rules.
Can rodents come back after treatment?
Yes, if any entry point is missed or food sources stay open. That’s why exclusion and follow-up visits matter.
Is it a rat or a squirrel in my attic?
Noise at night usually points to rats or mice. Noise in the early morning and daytime is more often squirrels.
Are rodent droppings dangerous?
They can be. Rodent droppings can pose a health risk; follow CDC cleanup guidance and ask a qualified provider about safe cleanup. See a doctor for health concerns.
Do I need to replace my attic insulation?
Only if it’s heavily soiled. The pro will tell you after the inspection whether spot cleaning is enough.
Can I stay home during rodent control?
Yes. Trapping and sealing don’t require you to leave. Keep pets away from trap and bait areas.
What if a rodent dies in the wall?
The odor fades as the carcass dries out, but that can take a while. Some providers can locate and remove it; ask whether that’s included.
Do ongoing pest plans cover rodents?
Some do, often with exterior bait stations. Check whether exclusion and attic work are included or extra.
How do I know the rodents are gone?
No new droppings, no new gnaw marks, no noise and empty traps over several checks.
Didn’t see your question?
Call and ask. The line is open 24/7 and calling is free.
- Your ZIP code
- What you’re seeing and where
- How long it’s been going on
No obligation to book.
Hear Scratching Tonight? Call Now
Rodents breed fast and chew constantly. Call now and get a licensed local pro working on removal and sealing.
Call now (844) 442-2144